Colored Denim for Fall?

Q: I know colored denim was "in" for spring and summer, but now I see it in the stores this fall. Is this a trend anyone can wear?

With the rise of colored denim in 2011, it's carryover to Spring 2012 and now Fall 2012, it looks like the trend is here to get comfortable and stay for awhile. But with this trend redux, we're seeing a few additions to the mix. Joining the earth tone and brightly hued offerings are jewel tones, like ruby, sapphire and emerald. Even more exciting is the printed denim, including photo printing and painterly designs, as well as metallics and coated or "waxed" denim.  Avoid the truly neon shades right now; they were for spring/summer wear and, more important, are not appropriate for every age or shape. That said, don't let colored denim throw you - there's no need to match your top. For example, a grey and black striped sweater coordinates fabulously with jeans of any color - oxblood, cobalt, emerald, etc. Pick a favorite, season appropriate (thus a bit more saturated) color and go with it! 

Printed denim may seem fashion adventurous, but patterns range from subtle to bold. Be willing to step outside your comfort zone to try on a pair, but do be careful you don't choose a print that emphasizes a less-than-favorite body part. Coordinate with simple tops in solid shades or, for you advanced fashionistas, in another pattern. Rule of thumb for mixing patterns: mix big print with small print (and not big with big, small with small) and have at least one common color to connect the 2 garments. 

Coated denim ranges from light finishes for subtle shine to medium glaze for a leather-like look to heavy coating for a waxed appearance. I particularly like the metallic coatings. These high-tech treatments impart a dramatic effect, but because they include the stretch and lightweight qualities of denim, can be worn with comfort and ease. Keep in mind that this type of denim looks best in form fitting styles. However, I would argue that all jeans look best when form fitted - no matter if skinny or bootcut. There's nothing stylish or flattering about saggy, baggy britches. In that vein, denim manufacturers are playing with the lycra content of their jeans to offer even more shape retention, hopefully eliminating the need to wash and dry after each wear.

Jacket for early Fall?

Q: What kind of jacket is good for fall, something that won't be too heavy but that I can wear to work?

A: I am a big fan of the trench coat, a wardrobe staple in my opinion, especially here in the south, where it doesn't get super cold for very long. Contrary to what some believe, the trench is not just a raincoat. Created in the 1900's by Thomas Burberry, the most traditional fabrication is cotton gabardine (which Burberry himself invented), but today other materials are used, including wool and leather. However for our Alabama climate, a cotton variety will get the most wear. Below are some tips for selecting the right trench.

Burberry, $650

• A khaki trench always works, be it in a darker tan or a lighter shade like cement. Black is also a great option, and can carry into night time. Fun colors and finishes abound, but keep in mind those say fashion more than they do business.
• Your trench should hit anywhere between two and six inches above the knee. And it should feel snug, with slim, clean lines.

• The collar is designed to be flipped up (it keeps your neck dry, and it looks better that way). Pop the back, but let the sides hang loose for an easier look.
• It is considered more fashionable to knot the belt rather than actually loop it through the D-ring. If your trench fits as well as it should, you don’t have to cinch the belt around your waist at all if you so choose. Let it hang or loosely tie it behind your back.

• As with most wardrobe staples, quality is important. My clients who own iconic Burberry trench coats have had them 20+ years.

Ask Tracy: Be Don Draper?

Q: My brother and I have an ongoing debate I'm hoping you can clear up. When is it appropriate/ not appropriate for a man to wear a hat?
A: Not only do I conduct a lot of business dress code seminars, but from time to time I am asked to teach etiquette classes. So this is a question that frequently arises, especially with the recent popularity of the TV show Mad Men, depicting an era during which hats trended toward dapper styles, and baseball caps were reserved for actual baseball players. 

     In the 1930s through most of the '50s, a man wasn't considered fully dressed without a hat. But by the 1960s, hat wearing fell out of favor, partly as a result of longer hairstyles, cars with lower roofs, and resistance from some World War II vets weary from wearing helmets for so long. JFK's habit of not donning a hat was seen as the final blow to the trend.

     In large part to Mad Men, hats are experiencing a revival, but unfortunately the rules surrounding hat wearing (and removal) have not followed suit. Generally one shows respect to others by uncovering indoors, but "indoors" can be a subjective term. All homes, churches (unless required by the religion) and restaurants should be hat-free. Public spaces, like train stations, airports, hallways and elevators, are considered hats-optional, as are sports arenas. However, old school gentlemen (a lost breed) will still remove their hat when a lady enters an elevator.

     Ladies are mostly exempt from hat etiquette, with the exception of baseball caps. It has always been accepted that if a hat is considered part of a woman's outfit, it may be kept on. In the spirit of equality, this allowance is now being extended to men as well, to the pleasure of vendors such as J.Crew and Gap, who have included fedoras and pageboy caps in recent collections.

     But to all, wearing a baseball cap backwards is never appropriate!

Ask Tracy: Bargain hunting

Q: What should I look for in end-of-the-season sales the stores are having right now?

A: Let's start with what NOT to look for at these sales. Avoid anything overly trendy - there's a good chance these items will be on the "out" list by the time  next spring/summer rolls around. Skip damaged pieces as well - while the price can be tempting, what you will spend to have the torn hem repaired or replace the missing belt can end up making it not such a great deal, or, more likely, you won't go to the trouble and the item will sit in your closet. 

When shopping sales, focus on quality over quantity. It's a great time to get a high end basics (like quality tees) and wardrobe staples (a light trench coat, perhaps). Luxury retailers Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Gus Mayer offer deep discounts at the end of season, and the "Rack of Remorse" at Homewood men's store Shaia's is near famous. Because of our long hot season in the south, men would do well to pick up spring/summer weight suiting and unlined items.

Be familiar with the existing contents of your closet so you can enter the store armed with a list of needs, thus avoiding superfluous purchases. Never buy an item without having an idea of what you will pair it with in your current wardrobe.

Don't expect to leave a sale with an armload - finding those few special items is much more rewarding. Happy hunting!

Ask Tracy: Leather in summer?

Celine

Q: I've seen leather in the stores this summer - is it really appropriate to wear leather in warm weather in the south?

A:    Just as there is summer-weight wool, there is also summer-weight leather. Lighter and thinner than its fall/winter counterpart, this season's leather is unlined and often more loosely constructed. Because genuine animal skins do not breathe (nor do the synthetic versions, for that matter), these qualities are what make it wearable in warmer temperatures.
     Favorite items I've seen this summer include: a hip cognac 3/4 sleeve unlined bolero jacket, a dainty white laser cut A-line skirt, and a fitted black knit sheath dress with a visually slimming ivory leather center panel.
     Keep it simple: too much embellishment complicates what should be a clean silhouette, and the "biker look" is not in keeping with the trend.

FASHION CAMP IS MOVING TO The Shops of Grand River!
And they are going "all out" to make this new venue on the 5th anniversary of Fashion Camp an extra special one! For girls ages 6-15, this is THE summer day camp that has sold out (with waiting lists) each year, teaching girls about all-things-stylish (including etiquette). Click for detailed info, including class agendas, dates & registration form: Fashion Camp with Tracy James Robinson

Ask Tracy: Dressing for Success

Q: I am female professional working in a conservative banking environment. I have trouble being creative with my wardrobe and end up wearing pantsuits everyday, usually in navy, grey, black, brown or taupe, with a solid shell underneath. What else can I wear but still maintain a professional image?

A: No offense, but your work wardrobe sounds rather, well, "snore." This is 2012! We are no longer in the days of "to compete with a man you must dress like a man." No need to hide your femininity or shy away from color, print and pattern. One of the first things I do when reorganizing a client's closet is I separate the suits: jackets in one section, pants in another, to encourage mixing and matching. Changes in one's style can be difficult, so weening into a new look is often best. Since you seem to be comfortable with the jacket and pant formula, start there. You have all of the neutral basics, so now look for what I call novelty jackets - jackets that are just a single piece and offer some sort of interest, whether it be via a print, texture, shape or detail. Stay traditional by pairing a Chanel- style black and white tweed jacket with your black suit pants. Try bold color by pairing a coral or color-of-the-moment orange jacket with your grey pants. 

You can also mix and match in reverse: wear your taupe jacket with ivory herringbone weave pants or your brown with glen plaid pants, all you need is a hint of brown in the pattern to tie the two together. Then you can start thinking about wearing your jackets over sleek sheath dresses (preferably patterned sheaths, but start with solids if need be). And finally, especially in the dead of summer, consider dropping the jacket idea all together from time to time, and when it is 98 degrees outside, choose a clean-lined dress. There are plenty of professional looking dress options, like those from Kay Unger, David Meister, Elie Tahari, Banana Republic and Ann Taylor. In all cases, never underestimate the importance of great shoes and accessories! Even with the most conservative clothing, both should be current (not necessarily trendy, just not dated) and in good condition. As designer Kate Spade said, "Accessories are what make an outfit a little bit more you," thus differentiating you from all of the other suits out there.    

Trend Watch: Hi-Low Hem

Love it or hate it...the hi-low hem (also called "dipped hem") can been seen in day dresses, evening gowns, tops and skirts this Spring/Summer. Because proportion is important, this is not an off-the-rack trend for everyone.

Ask Tracy: Necklines

Q: I have broad shoulders, how do I know which neckline is right for my shape?

A: Broad shoulders are often considered an asset, as they can balance the proportion of a larger lower half. (Alas, majority rules that for women the "ideal" shape continues to be the hourglass.) However, if you think your shoulders need to be minimized, a v-neck is the most universally flattering neckline. If you have a small bust, choose a wider vee; those with a larger bust should opt for a narrower vee. Avoid boatnecks, as well as cap and pouf sleeves, which will make your shoulders appear even wider (and are thus good for those with narrow shoulders).

Closet Bootcamp

Pollen season got you sneezing? Then there’s no better time to stay indoors and conduct your own closet bootcamp, a makeover for your wardrobe! 
If this is your first time to spring clean the closet in many a season, the task can be daunting, which causes many to continuously put it off. Make cleaning out the clutter a priority and give yourself a realistic timeframe in which to complete the job. Consider hiring a professional wardrobe consultant, as often it takes an objective outsider to give you that needed push to let go of certain items. When I am assisting a client in purging a wardrobe, we inventory each garment - deciding what to donate or consign (don't add to a landfill by just trashing garments, even those in poor condition), and separating items that need repair or could be revived with alterations. For those unworn but still hard to let go of garments, we analyze the reasons behind the resistance, sometimes resulting in a mini therapy session but ultimately freeing for the client. Common excuses include: "That might come back in style." To which I say, yes, but you will want the 2012 interpretation (with the excpetion of items with special vintage appeal). Or, "I'm dieting and hope to fit into that again." I'm all for goals, but often these items serve as reminders of what you might view as a failure, thus undermining confidence. How long has it been since you could fit into the item in question? If more than 3 years, perhaps it is time to embrace your current shape.
Should you chose not to hire a professional, perhaps you could enlist a friend to assist and keep you motivated, promising to return the favor in his or her closet.   
Once properly purged, here are some tips to give your closet a new and improved image:
- Use all the same hangers to give your closet a uniform appearance.  The right hanger will also help clothing keep its shape. I like slimline felt or velvet covered hangers or the plastic store hangers; both keep even sleeveless garments from slipping off the hanger. Like Mommy Dearest, I detest wire hangers because they leave divots in shoulders and, in this humid climate, can rust. Tubular hangers take up too much space and the tops don’t swivel.
- Hang clothing in the same direction: facing the left if you are right handed, facing the right if you are left handed.
- Group clothing by type: tops, jackets, skirts pants, dresses, etc., all in their own category.
- Within each category, sort by color. While there is no correct template, I use the order white, brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, grey, black. For mutli-colored items, use your best judgement as to the primary hue.
- Within each color, sort by sleeve length: sleeveless, short sleeve, 3/4 sleeve, long sleeve.
- Especially if you have a small closet, let no space remain unused. Empty floor space can be used for multi-level shoe racks, and walls can be used to install shelves for folded knits or hooks for handbadgs, hats, scarves, etc. In my closet I installed two long tie racks, one I use for nightgowns, and another I use for camisoles. 
- Neatly fold delicate knits on shelves, perhaps in clear bins to separate t-shirts, finer knits, sweater sets, etc. And make sure item is clean before you put it up - what moths seek is bits of food and perspiration left on clothing.
- Make sure your closet is adequately lit. Good lighting allows you to interpret colors and identify fabrics.
The method behind what non Type-A folks may see as madness, is that the ability to see a true picture of what is actually in your wardrobe will make dressing easier and help you avoid impulse and duplicate purchases. Additionally, an organized closet allows for an expanded wardrobe. Often people find themselves so overwhemled by voluminous closet contents, it's as if they can't see the forest for the trees, the old "I have a closet full of clotes and nothing to wear." And so they resort to wearing the same 4-5 outfits repeatedly. By separating these "safe" combinations, and clearly displaying in front of you the contents of your closet, you are encouraged to be more creative in your mixing and matching. 
After your closet makeover, don't let it revert to an ugly ducking! Purge at the beginning of each season, with a good rule of thumb being to part with items you have not worn in the past two years. In between seasons, I recommend keeping a bin (mine is located in my laundry room) in which you throw in give away items as you come across them. Know the location of a favorite charity's donation bin, and periodically make a deposit. (I use the Hannah Home bin at Whole Foods.)  
One of my favorite quotes by fashion guru Tim Gunn is, "What is a closet, really, but a catalogue of the different personas we have auditioned and discarded? Hanging there in our closets are reminders, both good and bad, of who we are, who we’ve been, and who we’ve hoped to be." While true, I suggest only keeping evidence of your current persona in your closet! Style isn't rocket science, after all, and with all of the other responsibilities in your life, you owe it to your self to simplify the process of getting dressed. 

Celebrating Earth Day in Style

Top Five Ways to be greenCHIC

1) Edit your closet.With the help of a consultant or on your own, take the time to go through each item of clothing in your closet. Remove those items that don't flatter, don't fit, look worn or, for whatever reason, you simply don't wear. This excess in your closet just prevent you from seeing and wearing the good stuff! Also take out items that need to be repaired and put them in a pile to take to your tailor. Either donate or consign your edited items. In other words, when it comes to your closet, less is more.

2) Recycle your clothing.
According to the Council for Textile Recycling, Americans discard 11.9 million tons of clothing, shoes and textiles each year. Rather than throw that torn t-shirt in the trash, donate it to a group such as The Salvation Army or Goodwill, which sells such items to fabric recycling groups. Or, see if your item falls into a category of a few clever companies who have devised ways to bring items too shabby for donation full circle, keeping them out of landfills. One such company is Nike, who will accept athletic shoes of any brand, turning them into "Nike Grind," a material used in sports surfaces (basketball courts, running tracks) donated to children's organizations. Another is Patagonia - drop off used Patagonia or Polartec fleece garments at a Patagonia store or mail them to the company's service center, and they'll recycle the old fabrics into new clothing. Council for Textile Recycling www.weardonaterecycle.org                                                         Nike Reuse-A-Shoewww.nikereuseashoe.com                                                                     Patagonia Common Threads Garment Recycling www.patagonia.com/recycle

3) Use a greener dry cleaner.
Even better, try to avoid dry cleaning as much as possible. My clients have heard me lecture about the evils of conventional dry cleaning, as it is both bad for our clothes and the environment. The standard solvent is perchloroethylene (PERC), a central nervous system depressant that is listed as a hazardous air pollutant under the federal standards. I advise that clothing be immediately removed from the plastic bags, so the chemicals won't be held in and damage your clothing even further. However, the PERC will slowly be released into the air in your home. So the best solution is to ditch your conventional dry cleaner altogether. Spot clean or machine wash when you can, and if you must dry clean, a less toxic alternative is a GreenEarth dry cleaner, a silicone-based solvent used in modified dry-cleaning machines. To find a GreenEarth cleaner near you, go to www.greenearthcleaning.com.

4) Be material-istic.
Choosing eco-friendly fabrics is important not only to the environment but to your health. Take cotton, for example - you've seen all those commercials portraying cotton as the "feel good" fabric. Well, it's actually an environmental disaster. Growing conventional cotton is THE most pesticide-intensive process in the world. Only 3% of the world's farmland is used for growing cotton, yet conventional cotton uses about 24% of the world's insecticides and 11% of the world's pesticides (50 million lbs. in the US alone) - which permeate the air, damage the soil and seep into the water supply. All of those chemicals in the field translate to about a third of a cup of chemicals (which include such known cancer-causing agents as cyanide, dicofol, naled, propargite and trifluralin) on your cute little cotton tee. So...opt for organic cotton, which is becoming more available in the marketplace. Other eco-friendly fabrics include silk, cashmere, linen and wool. (For green goods, visit Molly Green boutique in Homewood or check out www.greenwithglamour.com.)

5) Bag the shopping bags.
Shopping bags, both paper and plastic, are bigger environmental offenders than you realize. Recycle your bags and/or reuse them by taking your favorite one with you on your shopping trip for all your purchases. Even better (since many of those high-end bags are made of a laminate paper-plastic combo and cannot be recycled), give up bags completely and carry a chic tote in which to bag all of your buys.

Style Miss of the Week

Proving that stylists often have differing opinion, my take on Kristen Stewart's frock for the 2012 Kid's Choice Awards is that it is a definite miss. The Stella McCartney electric blue mini dress might suit someone else, but it is ill-fitting on Kristen: the sleeves are too long, bodice bunchy, and the high neckline and ribbon belt are unflattering to her boyish figure. Plus, the perfectly matching shoes are just that...too "matchh-matchy," bringing to mind bridesmaid dyables. (Did Kristen and the 10-year old in neon green behind her call each other the night before to coordinate?) The hue, which would work on someone with an olive skin tone, is not complimentary to Kristen's fair coloring. And as far as accessories go, the thumb ring has GOT to go. So sorry, Kristen, but this stylist finds your look to be lacking.

Ask Tracy: Spring nail polish

Q: What are the "in" nail polish colors for spring/summer? Can I wear trendy shades to the office?

A: It's easy being green this spring, as the freshly grown hue tops the season's trend in nail polish. Look for shades in mint (Revlon's Minted), pistachio (Essie's Navigate Her), and teal (Opi's Fly), which is green mixed with blue. On the opposite end of the spectrum, color expert Pantone's color of the year, Tangerine Tango, has inspired sunny shades from mod bright (Sephora by OPI's Paisley Attention To Me!) to coral (Sonia Kashuk's Tango Mango), which is orange mixed with red pigment. Also popular is layering sheer shades over opaque polish to add sparkle, opalescence or textured glitter (try Essie's Luxeffects or CND's Effects). These trendier shades tend to look more current on shorter nails, and a professional application is recommended - both techniques add sophistication. 

But keep in mind these shades are not suitable for all workplaces. Unless you work in fashion or another creative industry, which encourages being on the cutting edge, this look is too trendy. Especially if your office dress code is professional, you should opt for a more subtle shade and keep nails, saving edgy colors (even on toes) for the weekend or vacation. Fortunately, nude polish is also popular  - this year the shades are more skin tone than ballet slipper (try Zoya's Cho or Farrah), so just find one that best compliments your complexion.

Girl Power...or Mean Girls?

“Your outward image is critical in reminding people that you have control.” 
- Condoleezza Rice
Like it or not, we live in a first-impression society. A recent survey by Business Environment found that 72% of women admitted to judging their colleagues, peers, clients and interviewees by how they dress (compared to 60% of men). Thus, be mindful of the image you choose to portray to the world, especially in a work environment.

Chic for Cheap

Doo.Ri, $1995

Many designers are offering lower cost collections these days. Target popularized the trend, offering limited-time capsule collections by designers such as Jean Paul Gautier, Anna Sui, Zac Posen, Missoni and, most recently, Jason Wu. Other current collaborations include Isabelle Toledo for Payless, Marni for H&M and doo.ri for Impulse at Macy's.
The latter collection by Doo-Ri Chung, known for her fabrics and draping, is especially well-priced, especially right now: enter VIP at checkout on Macys.com to receive 20% off and free shipping. An example of Doo.Ri's splurges and steals: Left, via Shopbop.com, the Sonia belted dress in silk retails for $1995. Below, via Macy's, the Geometric belted dress in rayon retails for $69. If you can live with less luxurious fabric, there are design deals to be had! Check out the entire Doo.Ri collection for Macy's here.

doo.ri for Macy's, $69 

In the clutches... of the best designs of the season

I have always been a fan of a great clutch, so I'm delighted to see them trending for Spring 2012. Designers have taken them to new heights, with many of the clutches being true art pieces. Here are some fabulous examples (all available at Neiman Marcus): from Alexander McQueen's wild & wonderful, to Prada's brightly hued, to Diane Von Furstenberg's practical chic.

Alexander McQueen De-Manta Lace Print, $525.
One bag, 3 ways:

Alexander McQueen Encrusted Skull Box, $8295

Alexander McQueen Lace Knuckle Clasp, $3145

Alexander McQueen Embroidered Satin, $2795

Prada Daino Pouch Wristlet, $425

Diane Von Furstenberg Lytton Patent Minaudiere, $325

Diane Von Furstenberg Cork Tonda, $345

Nina Ricci Jeweled Minaudiere, $2150

Kotur Ombre Sequined Espey, $495

Judith Leiber Pave Striped, $3995

Kara Ross Flora Confetti, $690

Judith Leiber Fluted Minaudiere, $3995

Elaine Turner Summer Bamboo, $225

Prada Raso Stones, $1460

Kotur Barnes Raffia with Tassel, $450

Kotur Motley Croc-Embossed, $400

chicTip: Get a head start on purging

While it may still be chilly outside, use these days staying warm indoors to start thinking about purging that wardrobe to prepare for Spring. If you have trouble letting go of things,seek the assistance of a professional and email me! Throughout the year, have a spot (a bin in your laundry room or closet) for discards you may come across. Rather than letting them pile up, know the location of the closest donation drop-off (I visit the Hannah Home at Whole Foods on my weekly trips). This will make future purging much less time consuming!

Ready those winter knits for hibernation

As Spring approaches, it's time to think about storing those winter knits.  Here are some tips:
1) Make sure they are clean before storing! Even if a garment looks spotless, invisible spots of food, perspiration, etc., can cause discoloration and - worse - attract moths!
2) You CAN hand wash your knits (even cashmere and merino wool), and in fact, it is preferable to dry cleaning. If you have a big sink, go for it, if you prefer to use your washing machine on Ultra Delicate cycle, just MAKE SURE you remove before any sort of spin cycle!
3) Skip the Woolite and use a Shampoo/Conditioner 2-in-1 combo
4) Do not twist or wring. To dry, GENTLY squeeze excess water, then roll up in a towel, pressing with your hands.
5) Reshape and lay flat to dry.

ChicTip: Magic Tape

You've heard that tape has a million uses (specifically, the double-sided variety in this case)...
Forgo the expensive "fashion tape" (the only difference is marketing and pretty packaging) and cut custom sizes of good-ol' Scotch (or similar brand) to fit your need. Here are a few handy uses in the keeping-you-stylish realm:
• Secure the loose tail of a belt
• Temporarily fix a snagged hem (only works with lightweight fabrics)

• Seal down a plunging neckline
• Keep the back of your strapless bra from sliding up above the back of your dress or top/ Keep bra straps from falling down
• Close a gape in between buttons of a button-down shirt